MUMBO JUMBO – FEBRUARY 2012
February 2012
KEY WEST, February 3, 5:30 AM
No I’m not just getting in, I’m just getting up! It’s still pitch black out and I’ve got all the doors open and a balmy breeze is blowing through the living room and it’s perfectly quiet. It’s that brief peaceful time on the island between the late night revelers staggering in and the early morning recycling truck making its noisy, clattering rounds. Seemed like a good time to roll out of bed and write the long overdue Mumbo Jumbo. Some of you noticed I skipped the January issue, but with a trip up to New England and Cuba before Christmas, then the Holidays and Key West Race Week, all of a sudden the calendar read February!
PERFORMING IN GUANTANAMO BAY, CUBA!
On Thursday, December 15, we boarded a Navy C-12 to fly down to Guantanamo Bay, Cuba, to perform a couple of shows for the troops, but the adventure really began the afternoon before when I received a call from Lt. Commander Scott Armstrong of the US Navy. “Mr. Kirby, we’ve landed here in Key West with the aircraft. We’re headed to our rooms now and will be departing tomorrow around noon,” said the very disciplined voice! “Great,” I answered. Never knowing a pilot that didn’t enjoy a cold beverage I nervously said, “I don’t know your plans for the evening but I’m a partner in a little bar in town and would love to buy you a beer later at The Smokin’ Tuna on Charles Street, if you are out and about.” “Absolutely, how about seven o’clock!” the suddenly less formal voice answered.
At seven sharp Lt. Commanders Armstrong and Smith rolled into the busy bar. The incredible Massacoustics were performing that night so the place was jumping and everyone seemed to be in a very festive holiday mood and I think the pilots were happy to be in Key West!! They had both served in Iraq and Afghanistan and “Smitty” had in fact been stationed in Key West at one time! It was a gorgeous night out and I knew the annual Louie’s Backyard Christmas party was also going on that evening at the ocean front Afterdeck Bar, so around eleven we headed over there for the remainder of the evening for one of the most festive events of the holiday season. A good time was had by all … only in Cayo Hueso!
Late the next morning I met Dave, Lew London and JL Jamison at The Key West airport and we boarded the 10 passenger C-12 for the 2 ½ hour flight to Guantanamo. I was initially surprised at how long the flight was, but after considering that GTMO is way at the eastern tip of Cuba on the south side and that military aircraft are prohibited from flying over Cuban airspace it made sense. We had a beautiful day to fly and after flying east over some of the Bahamas we hooked around the very scenic east end of Cuba and touched down at the base. As we taxied up to the hanger I began to think of the all the history associated with this place, being the oldest overseas base the United States has. Unfortunately, I am old enough to remember the Cuban missile crisis and of course many people today associate GTMO with the detainees currently held there, but the US has operated this base since 1903. The second thing that struck me as I exited the aircraft was how beautifully mountainous and dry the terrain was that surrounded the huge base (45 square miles) on three sides. The views were amazing and the climate was fantastic, much less humid than Key West. It really reminded of being in the Greek Islands.
After a quick bus ride we hopped a sizeable ferry to go from one side of Guantanamo Bay to the other. The air field is on one side of the bay and the rest of the base is on the other side. It’s a large sprawling facility – a small town really – complete with fast food restaurants and a large shopping area, beautiful sports complex and yes even an Irish bar, whose T shirt boasts, “The only Irish bar on communist soil.”
After meeting our host Aimme McDonnell, who had made all of the arrangements to bring us there, we checked into a very nice housing facility right on the bay. She then brought us on a tour of the base before dinner, taking us to the highest hill where we could see the lights of the detainees’ prison down below along the ocean. I believe there are about 150 prisoners still housed there and they are separated from the rest of the population. The other area off limits to visitors and most of the base personal is the actual fence line surrounding the perimeter of the base. I got a brief glimpse of the fence line and a distant guard tower which are heavily manned by a very serious contingent of Marines.
Periodically the CO of GTMO meets with his Cuban counterpart to discuss issues that might arise and apparently this informal diplomatic arrangement has worked reasonably well for some time. Otherwise, travel to and from the base to Cuba is highly restricted.
We had made arrangements to meet pilot Scott Armstrong and his wife for drinks and dinner so our first meal in Cuba was at the Irish pub! Mr. Jamison and I were right at home! Walking back to our room late that night we literally crossed paths with one of the island’s legendary banana rats. Wow, now that’s a rat! I’m guessing 15 pounds at least. They are protected on the base as well as the healthy population of iguanas.
After a great night’s sleep and the morning peace and quiet of no cell phone service (YEA!!!!!!!!!!!) we went for a leisurely walk to the gym and then set out to do a radio interview and sound check for the evening show. Radio GTMO was very cool, their T shirt says “RADIO GTMO, ROCKIN IN FIDEL’S BACKYARD!” Love that!
We performed two nights at a large open air Tiki Bar right on the bay and had a fantastic time! Dave and Lew played great, JL did a great job with the sound and everyone was very appreciative!! I got to meet Mike McCord who was instrumental in bringing us in to perform. Mike is the environmental director there and listens regularly to my songs on Radio Margaritaville. He was kind enough to invite us out on his boat to fish on the Guantanamo River for snook, tarpon and permit. JL, who had made a trip to GTMO about 10 years ago running sound for Jimmy Buffett, carried the day as he landed a tarpon and a snook. We must have seen a hundred permit in this beautiful isolated river but could not for the life of us land one. What a gorgeous spot. We never saw another human being all day!
It was so funny being in such an unfamiliar spot listening to the familiar voice of Steve Huntington on Radio Margaritaville on the boat radio. Coincidentally, I had run into Steve earlier in the month and he told me his father used to run the Officers Club there and in fact showed me this rare GTMO Parrothead shirt!
On Sunday, our third morning, I was really settling in to the natural beauty and climate of this place and felt very sad about leaving. The peace and quiet of three days without cell phone service or email had been stunningly wonderful. We had made some great friends and we all need to be reminded now and then of the sacrifice so many folks in the military make stationed all around the world so the rest of can live the way we do!
We were scheduled to board a 1:00 pm ferry to cross the bay back to the airfield where our plane was scheduled to depart at 2:00 pm. Somehow we got our ferry times screwed up and missed the boat and it turned into a bit of a classic island comedy! Fortunately it was not a rough day on the water and Aimee was able to quickly commandeer a pontoon boat from the base marina and pilot us (loaded to the gills with luggage and instruments) the several miles across the bay where we were to wait for a bus to take us to the airfield, which we could see about a half mile away.
However, as luck would have it, no bus on Sunday and we had too much stuff to walk and no way of communicating with Smitty and the other pilot at the airfield. We even tried to start several vehicles sitting there with no luck.
Being the head minstrel and apparently the least fearful of getting shot by a marine, I told the guys to stay put and I would hoof it up to airfield, and get someone to come get them.
The airfield at GTMO sits up on an elevated plateau by itself on the other side of the bay and is surrounded by fences and barbed wire and is somewhat ominous looking in a 1950’s cold war sort of way. I was approaching on foot and laughing to myself and thinking, here I am in Cuba, there is not a soul around, no vehicles, no people and I am walking up the road to this restricted airfield. This is hilarious!! I have a new song called “Living Lost and Lovin It” I love these situations.
I guess I’m lucky there are not many 200 pound Irish looking detainees!!
Singer/Songwriter Robert Hutto returns to Key West!
Performing Sunday thru Wednesday at The Smokin’ Tuna, 2pm to 5pm
Robert Hutto, a dear friend and one of the most talented singer/songwriters ever to play in Key West, has returned to town for the winter and is playing Wednesday through Sunday afternoons from 2pm to 5pm at The Smokin’ Tuna Saloon. Originally from Charleston, South Carolina, Robert was a mainstay in Key West for over a decade but has not performed here in over five years. An incredible songwriter, acoustic guitarist and phenomenal songwriter, Robert plays a bunch of great covers as well his own amazing array or original tunes. If you’re in Key West, don’t miss him!
UPCOMING PERFORMANCES!
Dave and I will be performing mostly in Key West and Key Largo for the month of February, at the Smokin’ Tuna Saloon and Snapper’s, and a Valentine’s Day gig in Miami.
I will be hitting the road in March for a solo tour on the East Coast.
March 1 – Manatee Island; Stuart, FL
March 2 – BuddyRoe’s Shrimp Shack; Mt. Pleasant, SC
March 3 – The Eddy Pub; Saxapahaw, NC (1-4 pm)
March 3 – Ashland Coffee and Tea; Ashland, VA (9:30 pm)
March 4 – Ashland Coffee and Tea; Ashland, VA (11 am – 3 pm)
March 4 – Private Event; Adamstown, MD (7pm)
March 6 – Boatyard Bar & Grill; Annapolis, MD (7-10 pm)
March 10 – New England Parrot Head Convention; Manchester, NH (2-4 pm)
March 10 – Lakes Region Casino; Belmont, NH (7:30 pm)
March 15 – Kingfish Grill at Comachee Cove; St. Augustine, FL
March 16 – Ace’s Lounge; Bradenton, FL
March 17 – St. Patrick’s Day Cruise with the Sarasota Parrot Head Club
March 19-25 – Smokin’ Tuna Saloon; Key West, FL
March 29-31 – Snapper’s; Key Largo, FL
Check the website for venue information and performance updates. I hope to see you on the road!
Dave and I will be hitting the road again in May. We will be touring in Texas, May 14-21. If you have any gig ideas or venue suggestion, please contact Terry Lederer at Terry@scottkirby.com.
As always, thanks for listening!!
Scott
Copyright Scott Kirby 2012. All rights reserved. www.scottkirby.com
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